The entire previous year, the Campground at the Rainbow Springs State Park had been under renovation and had opened just a few months prior to our arrival on Thursday, February 18th. All of the roads and most of the RV campsites were solidly paved which eased our ability to maneuver into our site. A paved pad also helped keep dirt from hitching a ride on our shoes as we entered the trailer despite mats at the both the base and the top of the stairs. The facilities sparkled and we had a good feeling about our stay.
We immediately called Art and Edda Ross, our friends who live less than a mile from the park, and arranged to meet for dinner during the week and a canoe ride down the river on Sunday, the best day weather-wise for the trip.
As the afternoon warmed on Saturday we walked down to the boat ramp where they had a small decked platform that stretched over the crystal clear water and was suitable for viewing the river. Soon a pontoon boat with the name of a dive company putted past us and before long we began seeing dive flags in the water drifting toward us. Occasionally, near the flags, fins would splash to the surface and snorkels would spout water like dolphins surfacing to take a breath. The Rainbow River has a thriving dive business whereby boats drop their clients upstream and they drift with the current, getting a very up close view of the abundant grasses, fish and turtles that inhabit the river. Many smaller springs, besides those at the headwater, feed the river and they can dive for a better view than what is visible from the surface. The drawback to the divers is that they tend to hang on to the grasses to stay submerged, resulting in a fair amount of it being pulled free. It then floats downriver and snags on pilings or fallen trees causing large masses of decaying plant material which is less than desirable for the river’s health.
The river is a popular one for boaters of all kinds. Numerous canoes, kayaks, and power boats passed us during our short stay on the deck. One amusing situation we observed was a young man who had launched a round, inflatable boat, not much bigger than he, from the nearby boat ramp. He was lazily laying back in it enjoying the sunny day and attempting to propel it, with one paddle, to a destination unknown to us. We laughed hysterically at his attempts to get the boat moving as every time he paddled on one side, he spun around in the opposite direction like a child’s top. Then he would paddle from the other side and do the same, making almost no headway whatsoever. While he was pursuing this futile effort at nautical propulsion, he swandered (this is not a typo, but a new word Chris created just for the occasion) into the current which swept him briskly away. Fortunately another member of his picnicking pals had a somewhat more maneuverable craft and eventually came to the rescue and towed him back to the park.
To control trash pollution the powers that be do not allow disposable containers on the river; no plastic bottles, plastic wrap, aluminum cans etc. It seemed to make a difference as we saw no trash from where we stood. It is just a shame that people cannot take it upon themselves to police that sort of thing rather than having a law about it.
On our walk back to the RV we approached a wooded area and heard something rummaging around in the undergrowth. We slowed our pace so as not to scare the creature away and discovered an armadillo rutting through the dry leaves. In its quest for food, it headed our way and began crossing the road in front of us. We stood stock still as it almost walked right over Chris’ feet on its way to the grassy area beyond. Finding nothing of interest there he turned around and again crossed the road within inches of us making his way back into the woods. Neither of us had ever seen an armadillo in the wild before and were disappointed that the camera had been in the backpack and we were too afraid to retrieve it for fear of scaring the little critter off.
Sunday’s weather was spectacularly beautiful. The vendor from whom we rented our canoes was a personal friend of the Ross’s and he launched us from a private community facility within a few hundred yards of the Rainbow Spring headwaters that we had visited last year during the annual Cracker Festival at the Park; a courtesy that is not normally available to most of his clients. After paddling against the current to the headwaters and viewing the large, main spring, we then began our drift down the river. Much of the bottom is covered with a long, wide-bladed grass that undulates with the current. In many areas it is longer than the river is deep and bends almost in half, a skim of an aqueous barrier keeping it from breaking the surface. Scattered amongst the green blades were stems with tiny, waxy, white blossoms. The water was so clear that flowers could bloom underwater! We were amazed.
The shades of green, in this sea of underwater grasses, were gorgeous.
When we came across large areas that did not have grasses, we learned that they were usually where other springs were located. The water’s surface above them roiled like a pot of water just before it breaks into a full boil; the turbulence caused by the force of the spring, not the temperature of the 72 degree water coming out of the ground.
A stand of cypress trees along the river bank.
Much of the west bank of the river is forested park land whereas the east bank is largely covered in residences. Despite the number of homes wildlife abounded. We passed countless numbers of white ibis, egret, little blue heron, cormorants, anhinga, coots and turtles. An immature red hawk was perched atop a nesting box, completely ignoring us as we drifted by. The highlight of our day was sighting eight otters cavorting in the water then scattering into the woods as we approached our final leg to turn in the canoes.
Here a Great Blue Heron, two Cormorants and several turtles gather to enjoy the warmth of the sun.
The heron is standing on a mass of floating grasses explained above.
This young Red Shouldered Hawk paid us little attention.
Although we’d settled into a pretty relaxed state during the prior months of our travels the five hours we spent in the canoe were exceptionally peaceful. We were calmed by the warmth of the sun, caresses of the soft breezes and the quietness of the day. Jay was so relaxed he professed that he could have easily closed his eyes and taken a nap.
Jay about ready to take a nap.
Art and Edda had introduced us to a local wine that Jay loved. Warm days for outdoor activities were limited so they treated us to a visit to the Lakeridge Winery, located near Clermont, about an hour’s drive to the southeast. The tour began with a movie about the owner, the founding of the vineyard and why that particular region is suitable for growing their primary crop of Muscadine grape varieties. One would think that Florida is too hot and humid for them to thrive, but evidently they are disease resistant and suited to the climate.
A portion of the vineyard surrounding the winery.
The two huge vats in the distance contain upwards of 50,000 gallons of wine each during the fermenting process.
Our guide was most amusing and the tour ended with, of course, the wine tasting at the bar. This vineyard must be a really popular place because their tasting bar was easily 20 feet long and u-shaped totaling over 40 feet and packed with customers awaiting their fermented treats. This was not just for our particular tasting either as it was just as crowded with people from tours before and after ours.
Edda as she tastes wine at the bar.
Chris seldom drinks, but when she and Jay do imbibe, they prefer sweeter wines than most, which is why they were eager to visit this particular winery. Jay selected an assortment of wines to fill a case and restock their supply for wining and dining guests that visit them in the RV.
Joe and Rose Kennedy, friends of Jay’s from the Coast Guard, live in Homosassa Springs, a short drive from Dunellon to the southwest. We and the Rosses met them at their favorite restaurant, the Margeuritagrill for lunch one day. We enjoy spending time with friends as we travel and Chris gets to meet many of the people Jay has told stories about for so many years.
We loved the slogan on this sign: Eat here or we both starve.
From left-right: Joe and Rose Kennedy, Edda and Art Ross and Jay.
We immensely enjoyed our stay at Rainbow Springs but with the weather beginning to show signs of warming and the date of our next reservation upon us, we left on March 4th for Lake Griffin State Park and whatever new experiences awaited us.
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